Search

Grandmother’s recipes bring bagels and chopped liver to Monty’s Deli in Hoxton

PUBLISHED: 17:45 03 July 2017 | UPDATED: 17:45 03 July 2017

Monty's Deli

Monty's Deli

Archant

London and New York: two global food capitals, where you can find any food at any time of the day.

Over the past century New York has become the symbolic home of the Jewish deli, typified by the iconic Katz Delicatessen. But the East End, where tens of thousands of eastern European Jews found a home, once had an equally vibrant Jewish food scene.

Remnants of Jewish food culture remain in Brick Lane’s bagel shops, but Monty’s Deli in Hoxton Street is leading the charge to re-popularise classics like chicken soup, potato latkes, salt beef and pastrami. Having acquired a large following at Maltby Street Market, co-owners Mark Ogus and Owen Barratt have moved to a permanent location in Hoxton, where similar foods were once common.

The restaurant has maintained a relaxed atmosphere with New York-style booths and stools along the bar. Meat hangers from the original 19th-century butcher add a rustic feel. I’m a sucker for salt beef bagels, the ultimate sandwich, and have been eagerly awaiting the chance to come to Monty’s.

For starters we ordered chicken soup. It was bland, more like chicken essence, but it was the only hiccup. The meshuggener sandwich, a mouth-watering blend of chopped liver, using Ogus’s grandmother’s recipe, salt beef, pastrami and coleslaw, was the highlight.

Servings are generous and my bagel (which I requested instead of rye bread after learning they are made on site) failed to hold everything in. After some DIY, I was able to enjoy one of the best salt beef sandwiches in London.

The Reuben, a New York classic, was also superb. Layer upon layer of salt beef was topped with Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Russian dressing inside toasted rye bread. Sides of tangy sauerkraut and a fresh fennel, caper and parsley salad helped justify the meat overload. We finished with cheese blintzes, light pancakes filled with ricotta and topped with cooked grapes, which were excellent.

We were lucky to bag stools by the chefs, and Barratt was unfailingly polite, handing us samples and offering top-ups. By our count they went through 10 slabs of salt beef and pastrami in an hour.

If they keep it up, there is certainly potential for a new classic Jewish Deli in the East End.

Monty’s Deli, 227-229 Hoxton Street, montys-deli.com

0 comments

Welcome , please leave your message below.

Optional - JPG files only
Optional - MP3 files only
Optional - 3GP, AVI, MOV, MPG or WMV files
Comments

Please log in to leave a comment and share your views with other Hackney Gazette visitors.

We enable people to post comments with the aim of encouraging open debate.

Only people who register and sign up to our terms and conditions can post comments. These terms and conditions explain our house rules and legal guidelines.

Comments are not edited by Hackney Gazette staff prior to publication but may be automatically filtered.

If you have a complaint about a comment please contact us by clicking on the Report This Comment button next to the comment.

Not a member yet?

Register to create your own unique Hackney Gazette account for free.

Signing up is free, quick and easy and offers you the chance to add comments, personalise the site with local information picked just for you, and more.

Sign up now

Latest Hackney Stories

22:31

Spurs could lose one of their two Belgian centre backs this summer

17:36

The event is raising awareness and funds for Solace Women’s Aid, a charity that seeks to put an end to domestic and sexual violence

14:06

The Spurs manager provides the latest on Toby Alderweireld, praises Mousa Dembele’s quality and reveals how close Lucas Moura is to starting on Sunday

With Arsenal set to face Pep Guardiola’s Manchester City in the Carbao Cup final at Wembley on Sunday Layth Yousif talked to Manchester Evening News football writer Charlotte Duncker who covers the Etihad outfit. Read on for her expert views.

13:00

Leyton Orient return to their Brisbane Road home this week for a vital game with National League rivals Gateshead in the quarter-finals of the FA Trophy.

12:18

The draw for the last 16 of the Europa League has just taken place in Nyon.

12:04

In the week of the Carabao Cup final read our series detailing previous Arsenal League Cup finals by talking to the people who were there. Read on as we recall the glorious 1987 Littlewoods Cup final victory over Liverpool at Wembley.

FA Women’s Super League 2: Tottenham Hotspur Ladies 6 Watford Ladies 0

PROMOTED CONTENT

To celebrate LGBT history month, Hackney resident Amanda talks about her journey to becoming a foster carer, with the council’s support and training.



Newsletter Sign Up

Sign up to receive our regular email newsletter

Most read entertainment

Show Job Lists