Search

Wolf, Stoke Newington High Street: Chef Karla Knowles pays homage to authentic Italian fare

PUBLISHED: 11:31 14 January 2018 | UPDATED: 11:31 14 January 2018

Gnocchetti at Wolf

Gnocchetti at Wolf

wolf

Karla Knowles’ Italian roots have influenced the new winter menu at Wolf in Stoke Newington High Street, discovers Emma Bartholomew

The baccala fritto at Wolf The baccala fritto at Wolf

Having tasted the tiramisu at Wolf, it’s mind-boggling to imagine Karla Knowles’ mum apparently stubbornly refuses to eat it whenever she visits.

Based on a recipe handed down through her family, she takes offence at the Marsala orange zest head chef Karla has added in. I personally found it delightful.

It’s no surprise that Karla has Italian parentage - the food served up at the stylish Stoke Newington High Street restaurant is as authentic as it gets. She took over the helm six months ago after a stint at the Michelin starred Petersham Nurseries, and has just put together a hearty, yet sophisticated winter menu.

We loved the baccala fritto (£10), which sees salted cod and sprout tops lightly fried in tempura batter. Apparently the trick is to use sparkling water for aeration and to fry twice to achieve the delicious crispiness.

Wolf in Stoke Newington High Street Wolf in Stoke Newington High Street

Karla evidently knows her stuff and the gnocetti (£13), or fried gnocci, are also out of this world. In my experience gnocci are heavy little lumps, but these are again light, and the flavour alongside morels and chanterelles is subtle and earthy.

The barrochio feather blade braised British beef (£22) is so tender it falls off the fork and the salsa verde adds a lemony kick to the polenta. The meat retains its shape despite being soaked in red wine and cooked overnight.

Like all respectable Italian restaurants homemade pasta features on the menu, and comes in all shapes and sizes here. Bucatini is like a thick spaghetti, and is topped with with venison shin porcini ragu (£16). It’s al dente and another good winter warmer - the kind of food you’d like if you were stuck half way up a mountain in Treviso remarked my friend. Hackney really was that chilly the day we visited. Truffle potatoes (£4) were light, fluffy and rosemary tinged.

For dessert, caramelised pears served with honey, mascarpone and pistachio (£5.50) is definitely worth returning for - along with the rest of the menu. A sanctuary amid the bustle of the high street outside, Wolf celebrates authentic Italian food and it’s easy to while away the hours in here.

The barroccio feather blade at Wolf The barroccio feather blade at Wolf

wolf-restaurant.co.uk.

0 comments

Welcome , please leave your message below.

Optional - JPG files only
Optional - MP3 files only
Optional - 3GP, AVI, MOV, MPG or WMV files
Comments

Please log in to leave a comment and share your views with other Hackney Gazette visitors.

We enable people to post comments with the aim of encouraging open debate.

Only people who register and sign up to our terms and conditions can post comments. These terms and conditions explain our house rules and legal guidelines.

Comments are not edited by Hackney Gazette staff prior to publication but may be automatically filtered.

If you have a complaint about a comment please contact us by clicking on the Report This Comment button next to the comment.

Not a member yet?

Register to create your own unique Hackney Gazette account for free.

Signing up is free, quick and easy and offers you the chance to add comments, personalise the site with local information picked just for you, and more.

Sign up now

Latest Hackney Stories

Lean but fruitful third record from the leftfield pop merchants.

The South Korean is playing like a superstar right now - the Spurs crowd were on their feet every time he touched the ball on Saturday

The one-time West Ham United winger discusses the need for back-up in all areas of the pitch

12:36

Arsenal forward Theo Walcott is set to sign for Everton in a deal understood to be worth around £20 million.

These four puppies were found dumped in a box and abandoned in Victoria Park, shivering from the cold.

16:56

The Gazette hunts high and low each week to bring you news of the most interesting new businesses in Hackney. This week, we stepped inside the HQ of Erjjio – the London Fields start-up that makes “green” websites. Confused? Read on.

FA Women’s Super League 2: Millwall Lionesses 4 Tottenham Hotspur Ladies 1

Julia Olofsson and her team at Blade Hairclub have come up with an innovative concept that mixes hair cuts with cocktails.



Newsletter Sign Up

Sign up to receive our regular email newsletter

Most read entertainment

Show Job Lists