Bone Daddies, Shoreditch: Is this the richest Ramen in London?
PUBLISHED: 17:26 21 December 2016
I'm no ramen expert, but Bone Daddies' tonkutsu might just be the richest served up in London.
The gutsy pork broth in the noodle joint’s Old Street branch is thick and flavoursome, having been simmered for 20 hours.
I walk past The Bower, where Bone Daddies is, nearly every day on my way to Ironmonger Row baths - but had no idea it existed until our visit, as the narrow pedestrian walkway right outside Old Street station is hidden by hoarding for a huge new development.
With a vintage rock soundtrack blaring out, there’s a bit of a wild vibe, but you might just end up shouting at whoever you come with. The décor is dark and sleek with diners sitting at a line of high bar tables overhung with Japanese lanterns.
The salmon sashimi starter, at £8.50, was enticing with its rice crispy type topping, and the sweet spicy pork ribs (£8) flavoured with soy, sesame and sweet chilli are a must have.
The homemade kimchee pickle £4) made my mouth tingle with its heat and got the thumbs up.
There’s an extensive list of Japanese drinks including saké, shochu and whisky, and an intriguing cocktail selection with the likes of a kimchee bloody Mary and a Turbinado with plum wine and salted cucumber juice. I opted for the dangerously delectable Mi So, with vodka, miso syrup and coconut milk.
Bone Daddies’ founder Ross Shonhan is not your typical ramen master, having grown up on an Australian cattle farm. But an appreciation of fresh, quality produce and top-notch home cooking inspired him into the restaurant trade, and he was trained by legendary Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa in the traditions of Japanese cooking when he was head chef at Nobu, Dallas.
He decided to go it alone four years ago with his first solo venture Bone Daddies in Soho, and since then he’s opened up branches in High Street Kensington, Bermondsey and now this in Old Street.
Along with head chef Tom Moxon they’ve published their own cookbook, where Tom Parker Bowles credits them: ‘If you worship ramen, then Bone Daddies will feed your yen. And if you’re a first-timer, prepare for conversion’.
I’ll second that.
Bone Daddies, 211 Old Street, EC1V 9VN, 0203 019 6300.