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GoneBurger at the Three Compasses: Hackney pop-up has a recipe for success, not failure

PUBLISHED: 15:37 20 September 2017 | UPDATED: 15:37 20 September 2017

A pulled beef GoneBurger, at the Three Compasses

A pulled beef GoneBurger, at the Three Compasses

Three Compasses

Emma Bartholomew visits the Three Compasses in Dalston to try out the burgers from their new resident chefs, GoneBurger

Chips from GoneBurger, at the Three CompassesChips from GoneBurger, at the Three Compasses

When the Three Compasses asked their customers who they should invite in as their next “kitchen resident”, apparently the name they kept hearing was GoneBurger - so they invited them in.

Their delectable burgers have shining eco credentials and are all named after skate boarding tricks.

Meat is all organic and free-range, like the Kickflip grass-fed beef burger which comes with a whisky-smoked barbeque sauce, or the free-range chicken breast Burnquist with a cherry-smoked sriracha chilli sauce.

To top that, there are also an impressive two vegan burger options – or vurgers as we all now call them - and a veggie variant. A Templeton comes with a beetroot and butter bean patty, guacamole, vegan cheese and chilli jam, while the veggie Fakie uses the same patty but combines it with halloumi and aioli. A vegan Flameboy combines a potato and chickpea fritter with coconut sauce, tamarind and fresh pineapple.

Kiwi founder Kyle Rota set it up the company with his mates “to prove you can pay your staff a decent wage and use sustainable food”. Having a sister and mother with dietary requirements, there are gluten-free options too. Impressively they smoke all the meat and cheese themselves as well as making up seven unique scrumptious sauces.

“We used to buy our ketchup in but then we thought lets just make it, we are chefs,” one of the team told me.

Add all that to their triple-cooked crispy Krooked fries and a fast-food meal is as good – and as healthy - as they get here.

Burgers range from £8.25 to £11.50 and chips are £2.50 on top. Slam fries gives a poutine style option loaded with cheddar and curds and gravy made from Beavertown Brewery’s Gamma Ray IPA.

GoneBurger started out three years at festivals and has since had residencies in two other pubs before the Three Compasses in Dalston Lane.

According to the Oxford dictionary “goneburger” means doomed to fail, but if these guys carry on in this vein they’re destined for success. It’s their goal to get their own premises at some point, and it wouldn’t surprise me if this one day becomes a chain.

3compasses.com

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