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Smoke and Salt: Five-course tasting menu is an 'absolute feast'

PUBLISHED: 13:32 06 September 2016 | UPDATED: 13:32 06 September 2016

Founders of Smoke and Salt, Remi and Aaron

Founders of Smoke and Salt, Remi and Aaron

Archant

"Modern dining using ancient techniques" is Smoke and Salt's motto, and it makes for intriguing and immaculately presented food.

Lamb main course, at Smoke and Salt, which is in residence at The Chapel Bar in IslingtonLamb main course, at Smoke and Salt, which is in residence at The Chapel Bar in Islington

Remi Williams and Aaron Webster take the best seasonal British ingredients they can source, and champion methods like curing, smoking and preserving to create their beautifully presented five-course tasting menu.

It might only be officially five courses but they manage to sneak in plenty more – like Guinness glazed pretzels, smoky popcorn, gorgeous crispy and soft chickpea fritters served with thyme-flavoured aioli, as well as their take on a BLT: grilled lettuce, artisan pasta, bacon and exceptionally flavoured tomatoes of all hues.

The pair met working in the kitchens of the eponymous Notting Hill restaurant, The Shed, while Aaron also did time at chemical food guru Heston Blumenthal’s Dinner.

At Smoke and Salt they combine their fine dining backgrounds.

A radish dish at Smoke and Salt, which is in residence at The Chapel Bar in IslingtonA radish dish at Smoke and Salt, which is in residence at The Chapel Bar in Islington

The purity of radishes – again of all shapes and colours – is offset with a rich sauce made with caramelised onions and goose, which Remi refers to as a “schmalz”.

Smoked hake comes with gooseberries and peas, while the grilled spring lamb from Wiltshire is served with Jerusalem artichokes and green garlic purée.

Dessert of torched grapefruit segments, grapefruit curd gel, and sorbet, with elderflower yogurt and crispy pound cake looks stunning and tastes it, too.

It’s an absolute feast and very reasonable at £38 a head for such ingenuity.

Delectable desert at Smoke and Salt, which is in residence at The Chapel Bar in IslingtonDelectable desert at Smoke and Salt, which is in residence at The Chapel Bar in Islington

The intimate terrace at Islington’s Chapel Bar in Penton Street is perfect for warmer evenings, but they fully deserve a permanent venue once their pop-up residency comes to an end.

Smoke and Salt is open for dinner Monday to Thursday. Call 07421 327 556 to book.

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