Emma Bartholomew tries the new menu at Plum and Spilt Milk, the restaurant in the Great Northern Hotel at Kings Cross

Plum and Spilt Milk’s menu changes four times a year to reflect the seasons, and its latest incarnation features mushrooms, and game like venison faggot and wood pigeon.

Michelin-star chef Mark Sargeant showcases the very best of British produce here, at the stunning diner inside the Great Northern Hotel.

Some 150 hand-blown glass lanterns suspended from the ceiling set the atmosphere, giving an amber glow.

Dark blue walls offset elegant cream and brown leather banquettes which curve around gold-rimmed tables of shiny cracked black lava.

The restaurant, named after the livery of the trains which historically ran out of King’s Cross next door, exudes an elegant mixture of tradition and modernity, reflecting the food which is served here.

Crispy duck is cooked to perfection and served with poached plums, cucumber and spring onion (£12.50).

Woodrall’s air dried ham tastes like prosciutto but comes from Cumbria and is complimented by poached pear, burrata and pine nuts (£14).

I can’t resist the maple and bourbon glazed Suffolk pork belly which my son agrees to share with me (£48), and I was still dreaming of the black pudding and mustard mash it was served with the next day.

Just as well the serving was so generous that we were able to take the leftovers home in a box and savour it all over again for lunch. Ratatouille is a new addition to the menu to accompany the pan-fried Loch Fyne scallops, olives and apple vinegar (£38).

The restaurant has won several coveted international awards including ‘Best Restaurant’ at the International Design Awards.

Although it’s not the cheapest, it’s a destination for simple yet beautifully cooked modern classics and its elegant atmosphere.

plumandspiltmilk.com.