Review: Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill, Islington

One-time ‘enfant terrible’ of the British culinary landscape, Marco Pierre White, was the youngest chef to be awarded three Michelin stars 20 years ago when he was just 33 – a title he still holds to this day.

Having trained under the famed Albert Roux and Michel Roux at Le Gavroche, he went on to nurture kitchen prodigies like Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal at his restaurant Harveys.

But in 1999 White, who is credited with being the first celebrity chef, handed back his Michelin stars, saying he wanted a better work life balance.

“Michelin star restaurants are not what people want,” he later proclaimed.

The Marco Pierre White Steakhouse Bar & Grill in Islington, a branch of his franchised brand, delivers more of a ‘casual’ dining experience, which he insists the future of dining is all about.

It’s based on the concept of classic British and French dishes, simply cooked using the best, well-sourced and seasonal ingredients.

The DoubleTree by Hilton hotel in Pentonville Road, just a short walk from Angel station, makes a glamorous setting.

As you’d expect there’s a range of 28-day aged native breed steaks alongside signature dishes like French onion soup, beetroot and goat’s cheese salad, and mains of fried haddock with triple-cooked chips or entrecôte of veal. The indulgent baked brie we chose for a starter came with juicy vine tomatoes, and the crispy calamari were delectable.

The 8oz chargrilled fillet steak was packed with flavour, and served with my favourite bearnaise sauce and homemade chips, priced at £31.95. Classic deserts include a crème brulée, sticky toffee pudding or chocolate brownie.

See mpwrestaurants.com for more information.