Treves and Hyde: ‘Stylish diner smacks of originality’

Each one of George Tannock’s starters at Treves and Hyde delivered an exciting and unique foodie experience.

Each one of George Tannock’s starters at Treves and Hyde delivered an exciting and unique foodie experience.

From the venison tartare (£12.80) paired with kohl rabi and the richness of truffle to the ricotta (£7.60) that had been smoked downstairs and served in a sweet jus, my friend and I marvelled at what was brought to our table to pass by our lips.

Morels came in a full-flavoured chowder-like broth (£9.80), with crunchy croutons giving a lovely texture alongside the rich velvety consistency of an egg yolk. Crunchy arancini rice balls (£4) were apparently coated in charcoal breadcrumbs, which were thankfully a million miles away from the bread I burn in the toaster on a regular basis.

Tannock’s training at The Dorchester and Fat Duck is not to be sneered at, and he sticks by the much vaunted philosophy of using responsibility sourced and seasonal top notch ingredients. But he adds an air of sophistication and originality, giving us the feeling of entering unchartered foodie territories - which is always exciting when you visit a restaurant.

Manager Danielle is clearly passionate about the place in Leman Street and helped fire us up a little bit more with her suggestions and descriptive take on the menu. “It would make me die a little inside if I was to have to talk about not good food,” she told us in her Aussie lilt.

Onto the main courses, a tangy seaweed hollandaise tied together the sea bass dish (£24). Tender chicken (£14.50) is given an enchantingly scented, flowery flavour by the rose water pickled radishes.

You reach the stylish yellow and grey themed diner up a spiral concrete staircase, and its wall-to wall glass windows afford a view out onto the busy streets of Aldgate.

I was intrigued by the name. Apparently Hyde restaurants have struck a deal with Leman Locke aparthotels and this is the first of the restaurants which will be located in each of their blocks. Treves refers to Dr Treves who lived in Aldgate, known for his friendship with “the Elephant Man”. It might be part of a “chain” but Treves and Hyde smacks of originality.